Fixing Flash-Filled Animal Eyes in Lightroom

Recently a colleague of mine, Kathy Eyster, wrote an article in her award-winning blog, Essential Digital Camera, on how to fix flash-filled pet eyes using Photoshop.  The red-eye tool won’t fix them, as it simply takes red out, and pet pupils don’t turn red.  Kathy points out that there are two steps, first turning the pupil almost black, and then painting back in a catch light.  Reading this led me to attempt the same in Lightroom with the adjustment brush.  Kathy was kind enough to lend me her photo. My conclusion is that both techniques work equally well, and are equally as straightforward (assuming you know each program). Here’s the Lightroom approach:  (If you don’t know how to use the adjustment brush, watch my Lightroom […more]


Update: Inverting Your Images in Lightroom 3

Quite a while back I wrote about a technique to invert your images from negatives to positives or vice versa that involved an Adobe Camera Raw workaround.   In looking at my blog stats, I notice that people are still reading that post, so I thought I would provide an easier technique — now that Lightroom 3 and Lightroom 4 have the point curve, you can invert your images directly. In the Tone Curve panel of the Develop module click on the point curve icon to switch to the point curve:


Lightroom 3: New Blur Brush and Filter

Looking to blur out a background to reduce distractions?  In Lightroom 3, use the adjustment brush with Sharpness at -100.   If this is not enough blur, do it again:  click on New to start a new adjustment, and paint a second time. Also consider using the graduated filter with -100 Sharpness to simulate a shallower depth of field where the sharpness drops off gradually.   UPDATE:  If you blur out an object that you want to keep sharp, use the adjustment brush and paint back over the object with +100 Sharpness to restore its sharpness! Is this cool, or what? Here’s a video on how to use the adjustment brush in Lightroom.


Lightroom Spot Removal in Heal vs. Clone Mode

You may or may not have noticed that when you are using the spot removal tool, you can work in either Heal or Clone mode.  Let’s take a look at the difference. Here is an image before any work: (c) A. Nowacka First I clicked on the spot removal tool to select it, and then on Clone:


Video: Developing a Photo in Lightroom

I used the image below in a  a post on exposure a few months back.  A reader asked me to show how I developed the image, so I have produced a video showing my technique.  Click HERE to view it. To develop this image, I use the Basics, Tone Curve and HSL panels, as well as the spot removal tool, adjustment brush and graduated filter. I hope you find the video useful.


A Handy Curves Trick

Curves isn’t exactly intuitive, so Adobe lately has been introducing tools to make it more accessible.  As I mentioned in my “Introduction to Curves” post, the sliders available underneath the curve in Lightroom (and Camera Raw) to adjust brightness of Highlights, Lights, Darks and Shadows are one example of this.   Another example is the targeted adjustment tool, which allows you to select tones you want to brighten or darken by clicking on those tones in your image and dragging up to brighten or down to darken. The tool detects the brightness of the tones underneath where you click, and adjusts those tones throughout your image.    Click on the tool to activate it, then click and drag in your image. […more]

Sign Up Today!
  • FREE Limited Time Only: Learn How to Clean Up Your Lightroom Mess in my 80 minute video!
  • Receive my Lightroom newsletter with news and tutorials
  • Receive PDFs of my favorite Lightroom shortcuts

Your trusted source for all things Lightroom!
I will not share your email. Unsubscribe anytime.