Apr 132017
 

Free Lightroom Webinar - Lightroom Spring CleaningUPDATE: This event is now full. Enter your email address below sign up for my newsletter – I’ll communicate after the event about how to access the recording.


Whether it’s spring or fall in your part of the world, it’s time to do some seasonal cleanup in Lightroom! In this webinar I’ll show you how to rearrange your folders and files, resolve question marks and missing files, eliminate duplicates, clean up and organize your keywords and collections, delete unneeded catalog backups, merge and delete catalogs, and more as time permits.

When: Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 12 pm Pacific Daylight Time (Los Angeles/Seattle) / 2 pm CDT / 3 pm EDT / 19:00 UTC / 8 pm London.

 

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Apr 112017
 

What's new in Lightroom 6.10 and CC 2015.10Adobe today released Lightroom 6.10 and CC 2015.10 with support for new cameras, new lens profiles, and bug fixes. There are no new features in this release. If Lightroom doesn’t prompt you to update, go to Help>Updates, or click on the Update button on the Apps tab of your Creative Cloud app, or download the update file from one of these links and then double-click on the file to run the installation wizard:  Mac Windows.

New Camera Support

Lightroom can now import raw files (and JPEGs) from the following new cameras:

  • Canon EOS M6
  • Canon EOS Digital Rebel Tyi (EOS 800D, EOS Kiss X9i)
  • Canon EOS 77D (EOS 9000D)
  • Pentax KP

Here’s  a list of all cameras supported in Lightroom at this point.

New Lens Profiles

These new lens profiles are now available in the Lens Corrections panel:

  • Apple
    • OOWA 15mm Wide-Angle Lens for iPhone 6 (JPEG only)
    • OOWA 15mm Wide-Angle Lens for iPhone 6s (DNG+JPEG)
    • OOWA 75mm Telephoto Lens for iPhone 6 (JPEG only)
    • OOWA 75mm Telephoto Lens for iPhone 6s (DNG+JPEG)
  • Canon EF
    • SIGMA 100400mm F56.3 DG OS HSM C017
    • SIGMA 135mm F1.8 DG HSM A017
    • Tokina ATX 2470mm F2.8 PRO FX (IF)
  • Canon EF-S
    • Canon EFS 18-55mm f/3.55.6 IS II
    • Tokina ATX 1420mm F2 PRO DX (IF)
  • Minolta SR
    • Minolta MC ROKKORPF 85mm F1.7
    • Minolta MD ROKKORX 85mm F2
  • Nikon F
    • Samyang 12mm f/2.8 ED AS NCS Fisheye
    • SIGMA 135mm F1.8 DG HSM A017
    • Tokina ATX 14-20mm F2 PRO DX (IF)
    • Tokina ATX 24-70mm F2.8 PRO FX (IF)
  • Leica M
    • Voigtlander VM HELIAR-HYPER WIDE 10mm F5.6
    • Voigtlander VM ULTRA WIDE-HELIAR 12mm F5.6 III
  • Leica M39
    • FED Industar-61 52mm f/2.8
  • M42
    • Helios MC 443 58mm F2
  • Sigma
    • SIGMA 135mm F1.8 DG HSM A017
  • Sony FE
    • Sony FE 85mm F1.8
    • Sony FE 100mm F2.8 STF GM OSS
Bugs Fixed

Note: Adobe reports that they have made progress on the Mac Sierra issue where panels would go black, reducing the chances that it will occur. If it still occurs, report the issue here.

If you experience bugs with this release, report them here.


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Apr 042017
 

The Vibrance and Saturation sliders in Lightroom’s Basic panel will both intensify colors in your photos. Saturation is an equal-opportunity, non-discrimatory control – it will saturate all colors in your photo equally, even if they start out at different levels of intensity. This is a great control to use if you want to give a quick and equal boost to all colors in your photo.

However, when some colors start out more intense than others, you may find that Saturation takes them over the edge into garishness before less-intense colors get to where you want them to be. In addition, using Saturation with photos of people is often a bad idea because in being non-discriminatory it will saturate skin tones, often producing less than pleasing results.

Consider the photo below. The first image is before adjustments. My goal is to increase the saturation of the colors in the hat.

Before

Before

When I increase Saturation, as shown in the second image, it not only increases the saturation of colors in the hat, but the skin gets yellow as well. In addition, the reds in the hat have started to go over the edge into garishness and where I lose detail in the yarn because the reds were more saturated than the blues to start with.

Increase Saturation by 50 (on scale of 0 to 100)

Increase Saturation by 50 (on scale of 0 to 100)

Let’s consider Vibrance, which is discriminatory – it will saturate less-saturated colors more than more-saturated ones – in other words, it focuses on the colors that are more faded-out. It also is designed to protect skin tones, so it’s an excellent tool to use with portraits.

Below I use Vibrance – notice that the skin color is pretty well preserved, and that I am able to get more saturated blues without the reds going over the edge.

Increase Vibrance by 80 (on scale of 0 to 100)

Increase Vibrance by 80 (on scale of 0 to 100)

Give it a try with your own images, comparing what you get with Saturation and with Vibrance.


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Mar 232017
 

Lightroom what is ExportIn the first article of this series on exporting from Lightroom, I discussed what exporting is, and when you should and shouldn’t export. In short, you’ll click on the Export button to export a copy of your selected photo(s) pretty much any time you want to share them with the outside world.

Now I’ll start discussing the settings in the Export dialog – in this second article I’ll start with Export Location options.

At the top of the Export dialog towards the center you’ll see a dropdown to choose whether to export to a hard drive, CD/DVD, or email:

Lightroom Export Hard Drive / CD/DVD / Email

Select the CD/DVD option from the dropdown to burn directly to disc.  The Export Location section that I discuss in the rest of this article then disappears since you won’t need to specify a location on your hard drive for the files. Note that if your files take up more space than is available on your disc then Lightroom will prompt you to put in one or more subsequent ones.

Exporting directly to email is covered in a separate blog post.

The rest of this article will cover exporting to your hard drive  – choose Hard Drive from the dropdown.

Choose a Location on Your Hard Drive

In the Export Location section you’ll specify where on your hard drive you want to save the exported copies and whether you want these copies to also be available in Lightroom along with the originals.

Export To:

To specify where on your hard drive the exported copies will be saved, click on the dropdown to the right of Export to: (#1 in the screenshot below.)

Lightroom Export Location Settings

To choose a location other than one of those shown in the list, select Specific folder.

lightroom export to choices

Next click on the Choose button to the right (#2 above), navigate to your desired folder, select it and hit Choose or OK in the bottom right of the dialog. This location will now display below the Export to: Specific Location line (#3).
You can have Lightroom put the files in a subfolder of your chosen folder by checking the Put in Subfolder box (#4) and then typing in a name for that folder.  For example, in the screenshot above my photos will go within an “email” folder within “Temp Stuff” within “Documents”. If the subfolder doesn’t yet exist, Lightroom will create it.  With this Put in Subfolder option I can easily change the subfolder from one export to the next without having to click on Choose and navigating to it (though that is also an option.)

Choose Folder Later: eventually in this series I’ll talk about how you can save your various Export settings as presets so that you don’t have to enter them all over again each time. If you want the flexibility in your preset to vary the export location each time you use it, select Choose folder later in the Export to:  dropdown, and when you hit Export at the bottom of the dialog Lightroom will prompt you to specify that location.

The “Add to this Catalog” Option

As you may recall from my last article, I mentioned that I delete most of the copies that I export after I email them or otherwise send them out, since I can always export new copies if I need them again. Nevertheless I mentioned that there may be some situations where you’ll want to keep yours – for example, if you are a pro and you want exact documentation of what you sent out to a client.  If you do keep them, you’ll want to also make a decision about whether these copies should be in Lightroom or not. An argument against it would be that you risk cluttering up Lightroom with these copies and you risk accidentally working on a copy instead of on your master photo.  On the other hand, having them in Lightroom makes it very easy for you to access them when needed. (If you don’t have them in Lightroom you’ll access them with Mac Finder or Windows Explorer/My Computer.)  To add them to Lightroom, check the Add to this Catalog option (#5).

Stacking the Exported Copies with the Originals

If you check the box to Add to this Catalog (#5), and if in the Export to dropdown (#1) you choose to put them in the same folder as the originals, and if you don’t choose Put in Subfolder (#4), then you have the option to stack the exports with the originals (#6). This links the copies and originals together in what visually looks like a stack of photos. (Photos can’t be stacked together if they reside in different folders – hence the requirement that the exports be in the same folder as the originals. For more about stacks, read this article.)  I think stacking them can be really handy, since it’s a way to hide the exported copies underneath the masters when you’re not using them. Generally I therefore recommend choosing the option to put the exported copies below the originals – this way your master photo is on top of the stack and it’s less likely that you’ll accidentally work on the copy.

Existing Files: Ask What to Do

Lightroom needs to know what to do if it finds that you are exporting files to a folder that already contains files of the same names.

Ask what to do: if it finds duplicates it will prompt you to make a decision about whether to Overwrite the ones that are already there, use Unique Names, Skip or Cancel. Unique Names will add “-2” or a later sequence number to the end of the file to create a unique filename. Skip will skip exporting any that already exist, and Cancel will cancel the export entirely.

Choose a new name for the exported file: without prompting you, Lightroom will add “-2” or a later sequence number to the end of the file to create a unique name.

Overwrite WITHOUT WARNING: the old file will be wiped out and replaced by the new one – without warning.

Skip: without prompting you, export of the new file will be skipped, leaving the old one as is.

Up Next

In the next article in this series I’ll skip down to the Image Settings section to discuss Image Format (JPEG, TIFF, PSD, DNG), Color Space, Quality and Limit File Size to.

 


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Mar 072017
 

What's New in Lightroom 6.9 / CC 2015.9Lightroom 6.9 and CC 2015.9 were released today with support for new cameras, new lens profiles, bug fixes, and improved error messages for syncing to Lightroom mobile (CC only). There are otherwise no new features in these free updates to 6 and CC.

If Lightroom doesn’t prompt you to update, go to Help>Updates, or click on the Update button on the Apps tab of your Creative Cloud app, or download the update file from one of these links and then double-click on the file to run the installation wizard:  Mac Windows .

Lightroom Mobile Sync Error Information (CC Only)

The Sync Activity section on the Lightroom mobile tab of Preferences now gives information on why images have failed to sync. Clicking on any image in the list will select that image in the Library module. To access Preferences, go to Lightroom (Mac) or Edit (PC) > Preferences. At the bottom of the Lightroom mobile tab, if there is a sideways triangle to the left of “Sync Activity”, click on it to expand the section.

Lightroom mobile sync error messages

Lightroom mobile sync error messaging

New Camera Support

Lightroom can now import raw files (and JPEGs) from the following new cameras:

  •   Canon PowerShot G9 X Mark II
  •   Casio EX-ZR3200
  •   Fujifilm GFX 50S
  •   Fujifilm X100F
  •   Fujifilm X-A10
  •   Fujifilm X-T20
  •   Leica M10
  •   Olympus E-M1 Mark II
  •   Panasonic DC-FZ80 (DC-FZ82, DC-FZ85)
  •   Panasonic DC-GF9 (DC-GX850, DC-GX800)
  •   Panasonic DC-GH5
  •   Panasonic DMC-TZ82
  •   Phase One IQ3 100MP
New Lens Profiles

Continue reading »

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Mar 062017
 

Adobe just announced the availability of Lightroom mobile 2.7 for iOS and 2.3 for Android. The big new feature for both is HDR (High Dynamic Range) capture and merge – this allows you to automatically capture three DNG files with detail in highlights and shadows, and Lightroom mobile will  merge them together into a single file with detail throughout the tonal range. This HDR result is a DNG raw file, which gives you ultimate editing flexibility.

Lightroom Mobile HDR

iPhone 7 Plus HDR Capture by Josh Haftel, Adobe Product Manager

More Details on HDR Capture

According to Adobe product manager, Josh Haftel, “The new HDR mode works by automatically scanning the scene to determine the correct exposure range and then capturing three DNG files which are then automatically aligned, merged, deghosted, and tonemapped in the app. You get a 16-bit floating point DNG, with all of the benefits of both an HDR and a raw photo, which is processed by the same algorithms with the same quality as the HDR technology built into Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom.” For Creative Cloud subscribers the DNG source files and merge file all sync to Lightroom desktop.

iOS Devices Supported

  • iPhone 6S, 6S Plus, SE, 7, and 7 Plus;  9.7″ iPad Pro

Android Devices Supported

Samsung S7, S7 Edge, Google Pixel, and Pixel XL.

Technical specs (that the above devices meet):

  • GPU – Adreno 500 / Mali 880 or higher
  • Camera – 13 MP or less
  • OS – Marshmallow and above
  • RAM – 3GB and above (usable)

Accessing the HDR Feature

Within Lightroom mobile, tap on the camera icon and then tap the dropdown to the left of the shutter button and choose High Dynamic Range:

Lightroom Mobile HDR Setting

Once you take an HDR photo, Lightroom mobile has to remain open and in the foreground while the HDR processing takes place. You’ll get a notification if Lightroom is in the background and there is an HDR photo still to be processed.

HDR files are large (35-55 MB for a 12 MP camera), so you may need to free up space on your phone if you plan to shoot several before they’ll have time to sync to the cloud.  If you had enabled offline editing but no longer need to work with your photos offline, you can free up space by disabling offline editing and clearing the cache. (Your photos won’t get deleted – they will still be in the cloud.) To access these settings, in Collections view tap on the Lr icon in the top left.  Note that once a photo is synced to the cloud (HDR or traditional), it will automatically be removed from your phone, leaving just a smaller preview behind.

Other New Features and Changes in in Lightroom Mobile for iOS

Continue reading »

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